Italian Wine Guide - Northern Italy - Montpeliano Restaurant

The northwest of Italy is divided into four regions, Valle d-Aosta, Lombardy, Liguria and Piedmont. This latter may be regarded by some as the most significant Italian wine region, for it is the origin of perhaps the greatest Italian red wine, Barolo. This is a frequently age-worthy wine made from the Nebbiolo grape, which may be searingly tannic in its youth. Many of the wines produced deserve ten or fifteen years of cellaring. Many producers now bottle single vineyard cuvées as well as basic bottlings.

Nearby is Barbaresco, another red wine made from Nebbiolo, which is more approachable in youth and may also more affordable - although top examples still command a high price. Barolo and Barbaresco may be designated as Riserva if aged in barrel for four years or three years respectively. Both Barolo and Barbaresco are DOCG wines.

There are other important wines made in Piedmont apart from Barolo and Barbaresco, many of which are unconventional blends, or use international varieties. In particular Gaja, responsible in part at least for revolutionising wine making (and wine prices) in Piedmont makes Sito Moresco (Nebbiolo, Barbera and Merlot) under the Langhe DOC as well as a number of fine Barolo and Barbesco cuvées. La Spinetta makes Pin (Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cabernet) under the catch-all (designed to bring these producers into the fold) DOC Monferrato Rosso.

After Nebbiolo, Piedmont's second grape is Barbera (used in the blends mentioned above). Great value wines can also be sourced from the a number of top producers who bottle under the Barbera d'Alba and Barbera d'Asti DOCs. The third most important grape is Dolcetto - the occasional Dolcetto d'Alba can be wonderful, although most are light, quaffing wines.

Think of sparkling Italian wine and you're thinking of Asti (once known as Asti Spumante), an off-dry sparkling white wine made in Piedmont from the Muscat grape. The wine is often of poor quality, although good examples can rarely be found. Also there is Gavi, a dry white made from the Cortese grape.

In the northeast there are three Italian wine regions, but like the northwest only one of them is of great importance. This is Veneto, the other two being Trentino-Alto Adife and Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, often abbreviated to Friuli. The latter two produce some pleasant varietal wines, and there are a few stars - such as Silvio Jermann in Friuli. In Veneto, however, there are a few DOC areas worth a little more attention.

The vast majority of Italian wine is red, but there are also some wonderful white wines. Of all Italian white wine, those from the much maligned Soave region are perhaps the best known. These wines are made from the Garganega and Trebbiano grapes. Neither grape is a stunner, yet a few producers can fashion a wine head and shoulders above the usual dross. If you see a wine from one of my recommended producers, it is certainly worth a try. Recioto di Soave, also from this region, is a sweet white wine, strangely accorded the DOCG status, made from partially dried grapes.

Nearby is Valpolicella, a red wine DOC. Straight Valpolicella may be a pleasant easy drinking red, whereas Valpolicella Classico (from the central region) and Superiore (which denotes a higher alcohol content) may be a little more substantial. Recioto della Valpolicella is a red wine made here, but clearly way out in front is Amarone della Valpolicella. Both of these wines are made from air-dried grapes, predominantly the Corvina variety, and fermented out to dryness for the Amarone, whilst the Recioto is kept sweet. They are concentrated, complex, and frequently beguiling. Basic Valpolicella, once made, may be passed over the lees of a Recioto or Amarone wine giving a slight refermentation, producing what can be a beguiling red wine known as a Ripasso di Valpolicella. This DOC is in the running for top Italian red wine bargain, as a good producer will often fashion a mini-Amarone at a fraction of the price of the real thing.

Montpeliano Restaurant
13 Montpelier Street
London, SW7 1HQ
www.montpelianorestaurant.com
info@montpelianorestaurant.com
T. +44(0)2075890032